In this article, you’ll discover: Introduction Walk down any Georgian terrace in Bath, Edinburgh, or Dublin, and you’ll notice something striking: the windows. Tall, elegant, perfectly proportioned — they’re as much a part of Georgian architecture as the symmetrical facades they sit within. But here’s what many homeowners don’t realise. Those beautiful six-over-six sash windows […]
In this article, you’ll discover: Window hardware might seem like a small detail. But get it wrong and you’ll be reminded every time you open a window. Handles that don’t suit the style. Stays that won’t hold. Locks that look like they belong on a garden shed. We’ve fitted thousands of timber windows, and the […]
https://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/bay-from-inside-1-e1769258124971.jpg804740Michal Plonskihttps://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TWD-logo-small.pngMichal Plonski2026-01-15 08:27:002026-01-25 13:24:50Timber Window Hardware: The Complete UK Guide
In this article, you’ll discover: Introduction Walk down any Georgian terrace in Bath, Edinburgh, or Dublin, and you’ll notice something striking: the windows. Tall, elegant, perfectly proportioned — they’re as much a part of Georgian architecture as the symmetrical facades they sit within. But here’s what many homeowners don’t realise. Those beautiful six-over-six sash windows […]
In this article, you’ll discover: Window hardware might seem like a small detail. But get it wrong and you’ll be reminded every time you open a window. Handles that don’t suit the style. Stays that won’t hold. Locks that look like they belong on a garden shed. We’ve fitted thousands of timber windows, and the […]
https://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/bay-from-inside-1-e1769258124971.jpg804740Michal Plonskihttps://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TWD-logo-small.pngMichal Plonski2026-01-15 08:27:002026-01-25 13:24:50Timber Window Hardware: The Complete UK Guide
What defines authentic Georgian window proportions and why they matter
The history behind the iconic six-over-six glazing pattern
Why slim glazing bars are essential for period accuracy
How to spot common mistakes in Georgian window replacements
The truth about sash horns and when they appeared
Restoration standards for listed Georgian properties
Introduction
Walk down any Georgian terrace in Bath, Edinburgh, or Dublin, and you’ll notice something striking: the windows. Tall, elegant, perfectly proportioned — they’re as much a part of Georgian architecture as the symmetrical facades they sit within.
But here’s what many homeowners don’t realise. Those beautiful six-over-six sash windows weren’t just decorative choices. They were engineering solutions, born from the limitations of 18th-century glass manufacturing. And getting them right — whether you’re restoring originals or installing replacements — requires understanding why Georgians built them the way they did.
We’ve seen countless replacement windows on period properties that look… wrong. The proportions are off, the glazing bars too thick, or there are sash horns where there shouldn’t be any. These details matter, especially in conservation areas where planning officers know exactly what to look for.
This guide covers everything you need to know about authentic Georgian windows — from the historical context to the precise specifications that separate accurate reproductions from obvious imposters.
What Makes a Window Georgian?
The Georgian era spans 1714 to 1830, covering the reigns of George I through George IV. It’s a period that gave Britain some of its finest domestic architecture — and established window designs that still influence building today.
The Six-Over-Six Pattern
The defining feature of Georgian windows is the six-over-six glazing pattern. That’s six panes in the upper sash, six in the lower, creating twelve individual panes of glass separated by slim wooden glazing bars.
Why twelve panes? Simple economics and technology. In the 18th century, crown glass was expensive and could only be produced in small sheets. Larger panes meant more waste, higher costs, and greater risk of breakage during transport. Six-over-six represented the sweet spot — maximising light whilst keeping each pane to a practical size.
The typical pane in an early Georgian window measured roughly 10-12 inches wide by 14-16 inches tall. These proportions weren’t arbitrary. They reflected the available glass sizes and created the vertical emphasis that defines Georgian aesthetics.
Proportions and Symmetry
Georgian architecture is fundamentally about proportion and balance. Windows were positioned with mathematical precision, their spacing calculated to create harmonious facades.
The windows themselves follow strict proportional rules:
Height-to-width ratio typically 2:1 or slightly taller
Upper and lower sashes of equal size
Glazing bars creating panes taller than they are wide
Windows reducing slightly in size on upper floors
This last point catches many people out. Ground floor windows on Georgian townhouses are genuinely larger than those on the first floor, which are larger again than second floor windows. It’s a deliberate optical technique that makes buildings appear taller and more elegant from street level.
Glazing Bars: The 18mm-20mm Rule
If there’s one detail that immediately distinguishes authentic Georgian windows from poor reproductions, it’s the glazing bars. And frankly, this is where most replacement window companies get it wrong.
Why Slim Bars Matter
Original Georgian glazing bars — sometimes called astragals or muntins — typically measured just 18-20mm wide. Some early examples were even slimmer, around 15mm. This created the delicate, refined appearance that defines the style.
Modern reproductions often use bars of 25-30mm or more. To untrained eyes, the difference might seem trivial. To anyone familiar with Georgian architecture — including conservation officers — it’s immediately obvious. The windows look clunky, heavy, and unmistakably modern.
The thing is, achieving genuinely slim glazing bars requires skill. Thinner bars mean less structural material holding the glass in place. They demand precise joinery, quality timber, and proper understanding of how the forces distribute across the sash.
Ovolo vs Lamb’s Tongue Profiles
Georgian glazing bars used specific moulding profiles. The two most common were:
Ovolo — A simple quarter-round profile, common in earlier Georgian properties (roughly 1714-1760). Clean, understated, and relatively easy to reproduce.
Lamb’s tongue — A more refined double-curve profile that became fashionable from the mid-Georgian period onwards. Requires more skilled carpentry but creates a more elegant shadow line.
For sash windows in listed buildings, matching the original profile exactly is typically a planning requirement. Even in unlisted Georgian properties, using the correct profile dramatically improves authenticity.
The Sash Horn Question
Here’s something that trips up homeowners and even some window suppliers: sash horns.
Those small projections at the bottom corners of the upper sash — the ones you see on Victorian and Edwardian windows — didn’t exist in the Georgian period. None of them. If your “Georgian” replacement windows have horns, they’re historically inaccurate.
Why Horns Appeared Later
Sash horns emerged in the 1840s as a structural solution to a new problem: larger panes of glass. As cylinder glass manufacturing improved, windows could accommodate bigger individual panes. The classic Victorian pattern of two-over-two or one-over-one meant much larger, heavier sashes.
Horns strengthened the vulnerable mortise and tenon joint at the bottom of the upper sash — the point where the meeting rail joins the stiles. With twelve small panes, this joint experienced relatively low stress. With two large panes, it needed reinforcement.
Getting It Right for Georgian Properties
For authentic Georgian reproductions:
No sash horns on any windows
Meeting rails should be flush with stiles (no projection)
The joint should be a traditional wedged mortise and tenon
If a supplier offers you Georgian-style windows with horns “for strength,” they either don’t understand the history or they’re using inappropriate construction methods. A properly built six-over-six sash doesn’t need horns — Georgians managed perfectly well without them for over a century.
Typical Georgian Window Dimensions
Georgian windows varied by building type, location, and date, but certain dimensions recur consistently enough to serve as guidelines.
Standard Opening Sizes
For a typical Georgian townhouse:
Floor Level
Width
Height
Notes
Ground
1100-1200mm
1800-2000mm
Largest windows
First
1000-1100mm
1650-1800mm
Principal rooms
Second
900-1000mm
1500-1650mm
Bedrooms
Attic
700-900mm
1200-1400mm
Servants’ quarters
These are structural opening sizes. The actual sash dimensions would be approximately 60-70mm bigger in each direction to accommodate the box frame.
Box Frame Depths
Georgian box frames — the outer timber housing containing the sash weights and pulleys — were typically 100-120mm deep. This allowed space for:
Modern slim-profile sash windows often use spring balances rather than weights, reducing frame depth to 60mm. While this can work for new-build period-style properties, it rarely satisfies conservation requirements for listed buildings.
Restoration Standards for Listed Buildings
If your Georgian property is listed — Grade I, II*, or II in England and Wales, or Category A, B, or C in Scotland — window replacement is heavily regulated.
Like-for-like materials when replacement is unavoidable
Matching original profiles, proportions, and details exactly
Retention of historic glass where it survives
Single glazing in most cases (though carefully designed double glazing is sometimes acceptable)
The key phrase is “preserve or enhance.” Any replacement window must preserve the character of the original or, ideally, enhance it by correcting previous inappropriate alterations.
Conservation Area Requirements
Even unlisted Georgian buildings in conservation areas face restrictions. Local planning authorities can require:
Prior approval for window replacement
Evidence that proposed windows match original specifications
Specific materials (typically timber only)
Authentic glazing patterns and proportions
In practice, this means cheap uPVC or aluminium replacements are almost never acceptable. Quality timber windows built to Georgian specifications are the standard expectation.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Having worked with Georgian properties for years, we see the same errors repeatedly. Here’s what to watch for:
Glazing Bar Width
As mentioned, bars over 25mm look wrong. But equally problematic are bars that are too slim — under 15mm can appear flimsy and may not meet Building Regulations for structural glazing.
Incorrect Glass
Georgian glass had imperfections — slight ripples, bubbles, and variations in thickness. Modern float glass is perfectly flat and uniform. For the most authentic appearance, consider restoration glass with deliberate imperfections, though this costs significantly more.
Wrong Sash Proportions
Georgian sashes were almost always equal in height. Windows with a taller lower sash or shorter upper sash are Victorian conventions, not Georgian.
Inappropriate Hardware
Georgian windows used brass or iron fittings — simple sash lifts, face-fixed locks, and plain pulleys. Ornate Victorian hardware looks anachronistic.
Painting Schemes
Georgian windows were typically painted — white became fashionable from the mid-18th century, though earlier buildings often used darker colours. The bare wood look beloved of some modern restorations isn’t historically accurate.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the typical glazing pattern for Georgian windows?
The characteristic Georgian glazing pattern is six-over-six — six panes in the upper sash and six in the lower, totalling twelve panes per window. This pattern resulted from 18th-century glass manufacturing limitations, where crown glass could only be economically produced in relatively small sheets. Earlier Georgian properties sometimes featured nine-over-nine or even twelve-over-twelve patterns, whilst later Georgian windows occasionally used larger panes as glass technology improved.
How wide should glazing bars be on Georgian windows?
Authentic Georgian glazing bars measure 18-20mm wide, with some early examples as slim as 15mm. This delicate proportioning is essential for period accuracy. Modern reproductions often use bars of 25-30mm, which immediately looks wrong to anyone familiar with Georgian architecture. For listed buildings or conservation areas, matching original bar widths is typically a planning requirement.
Did Georgian windows have sash horns?
No. Sash horns — the small projections at the bottom corners of the upper sash — are a Victorian innovation from the 1840s. They appeared when larger glass panes created heavier sashes requiring additional joint reinforcement. Authentic Georgian windows have flush meeting rails with no horns whatsoever. Any “Georgian” window with horns is historically inaccurate.
What’s the correct height-to-width ratio for Georgian windows?
Georgian windows typically follow a height-to-width ratio of approximately 2:1 or slightly taller, creating the elegant vertical emphasis characteristic of the period. Both sashes should be equal in height, and individual panes should be taller than they are wide. Windows on upper floors were deliberately smaller than those below — a proportional technique that makes buildings appear more elegant from street level.
Can I install double glazing in a listed Georgian property?
Possibly, but it requires careful design and Listed Building Consent. Historic England’s position is that single glazing is preferred for listed buildings, but sympathetically designed double glazing may be acceptable where it doesn’t harm the building’s significance. This typically means slim-profile units, authentic glazing bar widths, and retention of original box frame proportions. Each case is assessed individually by the local conservation officer.
What timber species is best for Georgian window restoration?
For historically accurate restoration, softwood (typically Scots pine or Baltic redwood) matches what Georgians actually used. For enhanced durability, engineered softwood offers better dimensional stability whilst maintaining authentic appearance. Hardwoods like oak weren’t commonly used for Georgian sash windows, though they’re sometimes specified for improved longevity in exposed locations.
Conclusion
Georgian windows represent a high point in British architectural design — elegant, proportioned, and purposeful. Whether you’re restoring originals or installing sympathetic replacements, understanding the details that define authentic Georgian glazing makes the difference between windows that honour your property’s heritage and ones that undermine it.
The six-over-six pattern, slim 18-20mm glazing bars, absence of sash horns, and correct proportions aren’t arbitrary historical details. They’re the visual language of Georgian architecture, and they’re what conservation officers, neighbours, and future buyers will notice.
At Timber Windows Direct, we manufacture bespoke sash windows to authentic Georgian specifications — correct proportions, appropriate glazing bar profiles, and traditional construction methods. Every window is made to order for your specific openings.
Get your free quote and let’s discuss how to get your Georgian windows right.
Handle types for timber windows and when to use each
Casement stays vs friction hinges
Security locks and PAS 24 explained
Finish options for different property styles
Window hardware might seem like a small detail. But get it wrong and you’ll be reminded every time you open a window. Handles that don’t suit the style. Stays that won’t hold. Locks that look like they belong on a garden shed.
We’ve fitted thousands of timber windows, and the hardware choices matter more than people realise. The right ironmongery enhances both look and functionality. The wrong choice? It’s like putting plastic handles on an oak front door.
Window Handles: Types and Applications
Espagnolette (Espag) Handles
The modern standard for flush casement windows. Espag handles operate a multi-point locking mechanism — when turned, locking points engage at multiple positions around the frame. Most include a key-locking position for additional security. Available in all standard finishes.
Monkey Tail and Peardrop Handles
Traditional designs with curved or rounded profiles — the go-to choice for period properties. Originated in the Georgian era and remained popular through Victorian and Edwardian times. Modern versions often incorporate espagnolette mechanisms, giving you traditional aesthetics with contemporary security.
Sash Window Hardware
For sash windows, the fitch fastener locks the two sashes together. Modern versions add key-locking for security. Sash lifts range from simple hook lifts (Georgian) to more ornate patterns (Victorian).
Casement Stays and Restrictors
Traditional Casement Stays
A flat metal bar with holes that hooks onto pins on the window sill. Simple, reliable, unchanged for over a century. Lengths vary (200mm, 250mm, 300mm) — choose based on window size. For period properties, matching finish (black antique, brass, bronze) is part of the authentic look.
Friction Hinges
The modern alternative — combines hinge and stay functions. The friction mechanism holds the window at any angle without pins or hooks. Cleaner aesthetics, easier operation, ability to reverse sash for cleaning. The trade-off is a contemporary appearance that may not suit traditional properties.
Child Safety Restrictors
Building Regulations require windows above certain heights to limit opening to 100mm unless deliberately overridden. Most friction hinges include built-in restrictors. Not optional for upper-floor windows where children might be present.
Security: Locks and Standards
Around 30% of burglaries involve window entry. Good locks make a genuine difference.
Multi-point locking: Modern espag systems engage at least three locking points simultaneously, distributing force across multiple positions rather than one latch. Higher-security windows add shootbolts extending into the frame at top and bottom.
PAS 24: The British security standard for doors and windows. Products are physically tested against defined attack sequences. Building Regulations (Part Q) require ground floor and easily accessible windows to meet PAS 24. Certification covers the complete window system — frame, glazing, and hardware together.
Key-locking considerations: Key-locked handles prevent opening even if glass is broken — but can be a fire escape hazard. Use key-locking on ground floor; non-locking on bedrooms where escape routes matter more.
Hardware Finishes
Finish
Best Suited To
Considerations
Polished Chrome
Modern, contemporary
Shows fingerprints
Satin Chrome
Modern, versatile
More forgiving
Polished Brass
Victorian, Edwardian
Requires polishing
Antique Brass
Period, heritage
Low maintenance
Black Antique
Cottages, farmhouses
Very low maintenance
Bronze
Arts & Crafts, high-end
Premium option
General rule: match window hardware to door furniture for consistency.
Period-Appropriate Hardware
Georgian (1714-1830): Simple, elegant hardware. Fitch fasteners in brass or black, simple ring pulls or hook lifts. Understated function over ornament.
Victorian (1837-1901): More ornate patterns. Monkey tail handles with elaborate detailing, decorative stays. Polished brass or black antique ironwork.
Edwardian (1901-1910): Simpler than Victorian but still quality. Satin brass and early chrome finishes. Casement windows became more common.
For listed buildings, Historic England guidelines may restrict choices — check with your local conservation officer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace hardware without changing the window?
Often yes. Handles, stays, and fasteners can usually be upgraded. However, changing to a different locking system (e.g., adding multi-point locking) typically requires the window to be designed for it.
What finish is most durable?
PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) finishes are most durable, followed by powder-coated. Polished brass requires regular maintenance. Black antique and bronze age gracefully.
Do I need PAS 24 rated hardware?
For new builds, Building Regulations require ground floor and easily accessible windows to meet PAS 24. For existing homes, it’s recommended but not mandatory.
Casement stays vs friction hinges?
Casement stays hold windows at fixed positions with visible fittings. Friction hinges hold at any angle without additional hardware. Stays suit period properties; friction hinges suit modern aesthetics.
Getting the Hardware Right
Think about style (what suits your property), function (security, child safety), and finish (matching other hardware). Get those three right and you won’t go wrong.
At Timber Windows Direct, we offer a full range of hardware options. Get in touch to discuss what would work best for your project.
https://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/bay-from-inside-1-e1769258124971.jpg804740Michal Plonskihttps://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TWD-logo-small.pngMichal Plonski2026-01-15 08:27:002026-01-25 13:24:50Timber Window Hardware: The Complete UK Guide
