In this article, you’ll discover: Introduction Here’s something that might surprise you: the frame accounts for roughly 70% of a window’s overall performance. Yet most homeowners spend hours researching glazing options and barely glance at what’s holding that glass in place. We’ve seen it countless times. A customer invests in triple glazing, only to wonder […]
https://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/St-Albans-2.jpg11342016Michal Plonskihttps://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TWD-logo-small.pngMichal Plonski2026-01-29 09:52:002026-01-31 12:16:40Wooden Frame Windows: The Complete UK Construction Guide
In this article, you’ll discover: Introduction Walk down any Georgian terrace in Bath, Edinburgh, or Dublin, and you’ll notice something striking: the windows. Tall, elegant, perfectly proportioned — they’re as much a part of Georgian architecture as the symmetrical facades they sit within. But here’s what many homeowners don’t realise. Those beautiful six-over-six sash windows […]
In this article, you’ll discover: Introduction Here’s something that might surprise you: the frame accounts for roughly 70% of a window’s overall performance. Yet most homeowners spend hours researching glazing options and barely glance at what’s holding that glass in place. We’ve seen it countless times. A customer invests in triple glazing, only to wonder […]
https://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/St-Albans-2.jpg11342016Michal Plonskihttps://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TWD-logo-small.pngMichal Plonski2026-01-29 09:52:002026-01-31 12:16:40Wooden Frame Windows: The Complete UK Construction Guide
In this article, you’ll discover: Introduction Walk down any Georgian terrace in Bath, Edinburgh, or Dublin, and you’ll notice something striking: the windows. Tall, elegant, perfectly proportioned — they’re as much a part of Georgian architecture as the symmetrical facades they sit within. But here’s what many homeowners don’t realise. Those beautiful six-over-six sash windows […]
Why frame construction method matters more than most homeowners realise
The real differences between hardwood, softwood and engineered timber frames
How frame depth affects thermal performance and glazing options
What separates a 15-year frame from one that lasts 60+ years
Frame finishing options and their impact on durability
Honest answers about costs, maintenance and Building Regulations
Introduction
Here’s something that might surprise you: the frame accounts for roughly 70% of a window’s overall performance. Yet most homeowners spend hours researching glazing options and barely glance at what’s holding that glass in place.
We’ve seen it countless times. A customer invests in triple glazing, only to wonder why their windows still feel draughty two winters later. The culprit? A poorly constructed frame that’s warped, shrunk, or simply wasn’t designed for British weather.
Wooden frame windows have been protecting UK homes for centuries — and there’s a reason they’re still the first choice for heritage properties, conservation areas, and homeowners who think long-term. But not all timber frames are created equal. The species, construction method, and depth all play crucial roles in how your windows perform.
In this guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know about wooden window frames. No jargon, no sales pitch — just practical knowledge to help you make the right choice for your home.
Frame Construction Methods: Mortise & Tenon vs Finger Joints
The way a frame is joined together determines how well it’ll hold up over decades of use. And to be honest, this is where many budget windows cut corners.
Mortise and Tenon Joints
This is the traditional approach, and it’s still considered the gold standard for timber windows. A mortise (rectangular hole) is cut into one piece of timber, and a tenon (corresponding projection) fits snugly inside.
What makes this method superior?
The joint creates a mechanical lock that doesn’t rely solely on adhesive. Even if the glue degrades over time, the joint maintains structural integrity. For sash windows especially, where frames endure constant movement and stress, mortise and tenon construction is virtually non-negotiable.
Historic England specifically recommends mortise and tenon joints for listed buildings — and that’s not just about authenticity. It’s about proven performance over 100+ years. Their guidance on windows in historic buildings details why traditional joinery methods matter.
Finger Joints (Comb Joints)
Finger joints interlock timber pieces using a series of interlocking ‘fingers’ bonded with adhesive. You’ll find this method in most engineered timber and some budget solid wood frames.
Now, finger joints aren’t inherently bad. Modern adhesives are remarkably strong, and properly executed finger joints can perform well. The catch? Quality control matters enormously. A poorly glued finger joint can fail within years, while a well-made one might last decades.
For engineered softwood windows, finger jointing is standard practice and actually offers benefits — it allows manufacturers to remove knots and defects whilst maintaining consistent grain orientation.
Which Should You Choose?
For period properties and sash windows, mortise and tenon remains the benchmark. For modern casements in engineered timber, quality finger joints perform admirably. What you want to avoid is cheap solid timber with hastily glued finger joints — that’s a recipe for problems.
Timber Species: Hardwood vs Softwood vs Engineered
This is where things get interesting. The timber species you choose affects everything from durability to appearance to your maintenance schedule.
Softwood Frames (Engineered Pine)
Softwood — typically Scots pine or redwood — is the most common choice for UK timber windows. And before you assume ‘softwood’ means ‘inferior’, let’s clear that up: engineered softwood has transformed what’s possible with this material.
Engineered pine uses multiple layers of timber bonded together, with grains running in alternating directions. The result?
Superior dimensional stability (less warping and shrinking)
Consistent quality without natural defects
Excellent paint adhesion
More affordable than hardwood
Modern engineered softwood frames, properly finished, can achieve lifespans of 30-40 years with regular maintenance. That’s comparable to hardwood — at roughly 30% lower cost.
Hardwood Frames (Oak and Meranti)
Hardwood frames offer natural durability that softwood simply can’t match. The dense grain structure resists moisture penetration, fungal attack, and general wear.
Oak is the traditional British choice. It’s incredibly durable (60+ year lifespan isn’t unusual), develops a beautiful patina over time, and suits period properties perfectly. The downside? Cost. Oak frames typically run 50-70% more than softwood equivalents.
Meranti (also called Shorea) has become increasingly popular as a middle ground. This tropical hardwood offers:
Durability approaching oak
Better dimensional stability than European hardwoods
Lower cost than oak (typically 20-30% more than softwood)
Excellent machining properties for precise profiles
For conservation areas where hardwood appearance matters but budgets are realistic, meranti often hits the sweet spot.
Comparison Table: Timber Species for Window Frames
Factor
Engineered Softwood
Meranti
Oak
Typical Lifespan
30-40 years
40-50 years
60+ years
Relative Cost
£££
££££
£££££
Maintenance Frequency
Every 8-10 years
Every 10-12 years
Every 12-15 years
Best For
Modern homes, budget-conscious
Conservation areas
Period properties, heritage
Stability
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Frame Depth: Why Millimetres Matter
Frame depth is one of those technical details that sounds boring until you understand its impact. In our experience, it’s the single most overlooked specification when comparing window quotes.
What Frame Depth Affects
Glazing options. Triple glazing units are typically 36-44mm thick. If your frame depth can’t accommodate this, you’re limited to double glazing — potentially costing you significant U-value improvements.
Structural integrity. Deeper frames provide more material around locking points and hinges. For larger windows, this isn’t optional — it’s essential for security and longevity.
Thermal performance. A deeper frame creates a longer thermal break between inside and outside surfaces. Combined with the natural insulating properties of timber, this reduces heat transfer through the frame itself.
Standard Frame Depths
Most quality timber windows use frame depths between 56mm and 68mm. Budget options sometimes drop to 44mm — and that’s a red flag.
At 68mm depth, you can accommodate triple glazing with argon fill, robust multi-point locking, trickle vents, and decorative glazing bars without compromising glass area.
Frame depth is hard to assess visually. Two windows might look identical, but one might have 50% more timber where it counts. Always check the specification.
How Frame Quality Affects Window Performance
Beyond specifications, frame quality affects day-to-day performance in ways that only become apparent over time.
Airtightness and Draught Proofing
Frame stability directly affects airtightness. A frame that warps or twists creates gaps that no amount of weatherstripping can fully address. This is where engineered timber and quality hardwoods excel — their dimensional stability means seals maintain contact year after year.
For flush casement windows, frame precision is even more critical. The sash sits within the frame rather than overlapping it, so any movement creates visible and functional gaps.
Security Considerations
Frame material affects how securely hardware can be anchored. Dense hardwoods and properly specified softwoods hold screws firmly; budget timber can strip out around lock keeps and hinge points.
For ground floor windows, look for frames designed to accept multi-point espagnolette locking — and ensure the timber species can handle the stress these systems place on fixing points.
Wooden Frame Durability by Timber Type
How long should wooden frame windows last? The honest answer: it depends entirely on the timber, construction, and maintenance.
Durability Classifications
The European standard EN 350 classifies timber durability from Class 1 (very durable) to Class 5 (not durable):
Class 1-2: Oak, iroko, teak — 25+ years without preservative treatment
Class 3: Meranti, accoya — 15-25 years, benefits from treatment
Class 4-5: Pine, spruce — requires treatment and regular finishing
With proper finishing and maintenance, even Class 4-5 softwoods can achieve lifespans rivalling naturally durable hardwoods. The difference? You’ll need to repaint every 8-10 years versus 12-15 for hardwood.
Real-World Longevity
We’ve seen Victorian sash windows with original softwood frames still functioning after 120+ years. The secret? Regular maintenance and quality original construction. Conversely, we’ve seen 15-year-old budget hardwood frames with severe rot because they were poorly finished and never repainted.
The timber species sets your ceiling — maintenance determines whether you reach it.
Frame Finishing Options
The finish on your wooden window frames isn’t just aesthetic. It’s the primary defence against moisture, UV damage, and decay.
Preservative treatment (fungicide and insecticide)
Primer coat
Undercoat
Two-coat microporous finish
Microporous finishes are crucial for timber. Unlike traditional gloss paints that form an impermeable film, microporous coatings allow moisture vapour to escape whilst blocking liquid water ingress. This prevents the trapped moisture that causes paint to bubble and timber to rot.
Colour Options and UV Resistance
Darker colours absorb more UV radiation and heat, accelerating finish degradation on south-facing elevations. White and lighter colours typically last 20-30% longer between recoats.
That said, modern UV-resistant formulations have narrowed this gap. If you prefer darker frames, ask about UV stabilisers in the finish specification.
Maintenance Intervals
With quality factory finishing, expect:
White/light colours: 8-10 years before repainting
Dark colours: 6-8 years before repainting
Natural stains (hardwood): 3-5 years for recoating
These intervals assume normal UK exposure. Coastal properties, south-facing elevations, and areas with heavy pollution may require more frequent attention.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the difference between wooden window frames and timber window frames?
In practical terms, there’s no difference — the terms are interchangeable in the UK window industry. ‘Timber’ is the preferred trade term, whilst ‘wooden’ is more commonly used by homeowners. Both refer to window frames constructed from natural wood, whether hardwood species like oak and meranti or softwoods like pine. When comparing quotes, focus on the specific species and construction method rather than which term the manufacturer uses.
How long do wooden frame windows typically last?
Lifespan varies significantly by timber species and maintenance. Engineered softwood frames typically last 30-40 years with proper care, meranti 40-50 years, and oak 60+ years. However, we’ve seen well-maintained Victorian softwood sash windows still operating perfectly after 120 years. The key factors are quality construction, proper finishing, and regular maintenance — particularly repainting before finish breakdown allows moisture ingress.
Are wooden window frames more expensive than uPVC?
Yes, typically 20-40% more upfront. However, the total cost of ownership tells a different story. Quality timber windows can last 50-60 years versus 20-25 for uPVC, and they’re fully repairable rather than requiring complete replacement. Timber windows also add more value to properties — estate agents report that original or quality replacement timber windows can add 5-10% to property valuations, particularly in conservation areas.
Do wooden frame windows meet Building Regulations?
Absolutely. Modern timber windows comfortably exceed Building Regulations Part L requirements for thermal performance. Quality double-glazed timber windows typically achieve U-value of 1.4 W/m²K, whilst triple-glazed options can reach 0.8 W/m²K or better. Additionally, timber windows can meet fire escape requirements and when professionally installed, qualify for FENSA certification.
What timber species is best for window frames in the UK?
It depends on your priorities. For period properties and maximum longevity, oak remains the benchmark choice. For conservation areas where hardwood appearance matters but budgets are realistic, meranti offers excellent value. For modern homes prioritising cost-effectiveness, engineered softwood delivers superb performance at the most accessible price point. All three species perform well in UK climate conditions when properly finished and maintained.
How do I maintain wooden window frames?
Annual inspection is essential — check for paint breakdown, especially on south-facing windows and horizontal surfaces where water can pool. Clean frames with mild soapy water and soft cloth twice yearly. Address any paint chips or cracks immediately with touch-up paint to prevent moisture ingress. Full repainting is typically needed every 8-12 years depending on exposure, colour choice, and timber species. The golden rule: never let bare wood remain exposed to the elements.
Can wooden frame windows be double or triple glazed?
Yes, and this is one of timber’s advantages. The natural thermal properties of wood, combined with modern glazing technology, create exceptionally efficient windows. Frame depth is the key consideration — ensure your chosen windows have sufficient depth (typically 56-68mm) to accommodate your preferred glazing specification. Triple glazing with Low-E glass and argon fill can achieve whole-window U-values below 1.0 W/m²K in quality timber frames.
Conclusion
Wooden frame windows represent more than just a traditional choice — they’re a long-term investment in your home’s performance, appearance, and value. The frame construction, timber species, and depth all contribute to how well your windows will serve you over the coming decades.
Whether you’re restoring a Victorian terrace, replacing windows in a conservation area, or simply want windows that perform properly for 30+ years, understanding frame fundamentals helps you make informed decisions.
At Timber Windows Direct, we manufacture bespoke wooden windows in engineered pine, meranti, and oak — all built to order and delivered nationwide. Every frame uses quality construction methods, appropriate frame depths, and factory-applied finishing systems designed for British conditions.
Ready to explore your options? Request your free quote and discover the difference quality timber frames make.
https://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/St-Albans-2.jpg11342016Michal Plonskihttps://timberwindows-direct.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TWD-logo-small.pngMichal Plonski2026-01-29 09:52:002026-01-31 12:16:40Wooden Frame Windows: The Complete UK Construction Guide
What defines authentic Georgian window proportions and why they matter
The history behind the iconic six-over-six glazing pattern
Why slim glazing bars are essential for period accuracy
How to spot common mistakes in Georgian window replacements
The truth about sash horns and when they appeared
Restoration standards for listed Georgian properties
Introduction
Walk down any Georgian terrace in Bath, Edinburgh, or Dublin, and you’ll notice something striking: the windows. Tall, elegant, perfectly proportioned — they’re as much a part of Georgian architecture as the symmetrical facades they sit within.
But here’s what many homeowners don’t realise. Those beautiful six-over-six sash windows weren’t just decorative choices. They were engineering solutions, born from the limitations of 18th-century glass manufacturing. And getting them right — whether you’re restoring originals or installing replacements — requires understanding why Georgians built them the way they did.
We’ve seen countless replacement windows on period properties that look… wrong. The proportions are off, the glazing bars too thick, or there are sash horns where there shouldn’t be any. These details matter, especially in conservation areas where planning officers know exactly what to look for.
This guide covers everything you need to know about authentic Georgian windows — from the historical context to the precise specifications that separate accurate reproductions from obvious imposters.
What Makes a Window Georgian?
The Georgian era spans 1714 to 1830, covering the reigns of George I through George IV. It’s a period that gave Britain some of its finest domestic architecture — and established window designs that still influence building today.
The Six-Over-Six Pattern
The defining feature of Georgian windows is the six-over-six glazing pattern. That’s six panes in the upper sash, six in the lower, creating twelve individual panes of glass separated by slim wooden glazing bars.
Why twelve panes? Simple economics and technology. In the 18th century, crown glass was expensive and could only be produced in small sheets. Larger panes meant more waste, higher costs, and greater risk of breakage during transport. Six-over-six represented the sweet spot — maximising light whilst keeping each pane to a practical size.
The typical pane in an early Georgian window measured roughly 10-12 inches wide by 14-16 inches tall. These proportions weren’t arbitrary. They reflected the available glass sizes and created the vertical emphasis that defines Georgian aesthetics.
Proportions and Symmetry
Georgian architecture is fundamentally about proportion and balance. Windows were positioned with mathematical precision, their spacing calculated to create harmonious facades.
The windows themselves follow strict proportional rules:
Height-to-width ratio typically 2:1 or slightly taller
Upper and lower sashes of equal size
Glazing bars creating panes taller than they are wide
Windows reducing slightly in size on upper floors
This last point catches many people out. Ground floor windows on Georgian townhouses are genuinely larger than those on the first floor, which are larger again than second floor windows. It’s a deliberate optical technique that makes buildings appear taller and more elegant from street level.
Glazing Bars: The 18mm-20mm Rule
If there’s one detail that immediately distinguishes authentic Georgian windows from poor reproductions, it’s the glazing bars. And frankly, this is where most replacement window companies get it wrong.
Why Slim Bars Matter
Original Georgian glazing bars — sometimes called astragals or muntins — typically measured just 18-20mm wide. Some early examples were even slimmer, around 15mm. This created the delicate, refined appearance that defines the style.
Modern reproductions often use bars of 25-30mm or more. To untrained eyes, the difference might seem trivial. To anyone familiar with Georgian architecture — including conservation officers — it’s immediately obvious. The windows look clunky, heavy, and unmistakably modern.
The thing is, achieving genuinely slim glazing bars requires skill. Thinner bars mean less structural material holding the glass in place. They demand precise joinery, quality timber, and proper understanding of how the forces distribute across the sash.
Ovolo vs Lamb’s Tongue Profiles
Georgian glazing bars used specific moulding profiles. The two most common were:
Ovolo — A simple quarter-round profile, common in earlier Georgian properties (roughly 1714-1760). Clean, understated, and relatively easy to reproduce.
Lamb’s tongue — A more refined double-curve profile that became fashionable from the mid-Georgian period onwards. Requires more skilled carpentry but creates a more elegant shadow line.
For sash windows in listed buildings, matching the original profile exactly is typically a planning requirement. Even in unlisted Georgian properties, using the correct profile dramatically improves authenticity.
The Sash Horn Question
Here’s something that trips up homeowners and even some window suppliers: sash horns.
Those small projections at the bottom corners of the upper sash — the ones you see on Victorian and Edwardian windows — didn’t exist in the Georgian period. None of them. If your “Georgian” replacement windows have horns, they’re historically inaccurate.
Why Horns Appeared Later
Sash horns emerged in the 1840s as a structural solution to a new problem: larger panes of glass. As cylinder glass manufacturing improved, windows could accommodate bigger individual panes. The classic Victorian pattern of two-over-two or one-over-one meant much larger, heavier sashes.
Horns strengthened the vulnerable mortise and tenon joint at the bottom of the upper sash — the point where the meeting rail joins the stiles. With twelve small panes, this joint experienced relatively low stress. With two large panes, it needed reinforcement.
Getting It Right for Georgian Properties
For authentic Georgian reproductions:
No sash horns on any windows
Meeting rails should be flush with stiles (no projection)
The joint should be a traditional wedged mortise and tenon
If a supplier offers you Georgian-style windows with horns “for strength,” they either don’t understand the history or they’re using inappropriate construction methods. A properly built six-over-six sash doesn’t need horns — Georgians managed perfectly well without them for over a century.
Typical Georgian Window Dimensions
Georgian windows varied by building type, location, and date, but certain dimensions recur consistently enough to serve as guidelines.
Standard Opening Sizes
For a typical Georgian townhouse:
Floor Level
Width
Height
Notes
Ground
1100-1200mm
1800-2000mm
Largest windows
First
1000-1100mm
1650-1800mm
Principal rooms
Second
900-1000mm
1500-1650mm
Bedrooms
Attic
700-900mm
1200-1400mm
Servants’ quarters
These are structural opening sizes. The actual sash dimensions would be approximately 60-70mm bigger in each direction to accommodate the box frame.
Box Frame Depths
Georgian box frames — the outer timber housing containing the sash weights and pulleys — were typically 100-120mm deep. This allowed space for:
Modern slim-profile sash windows often use spring balances rather than weights, reducing frame depth to 60mm. While this can work for new-build period-style properties, it rarely satisfies conservation requirements for listed buildings.
Restoration Standards for Listed Buildings
If your Georgian property is listed — Grade I, II*, or II in England and Wales, or Category A, B, or C in Scotland — window replacement is heavily regulated.
Like-for-like materials when replacement is unavoidable
Matching original profiles, proportions, and details exactly
Retention of historic glass where it survives
Single glazing in most cases (though carefully designed double glazing is sometimes acceptable)
The key phrase is “preserve or enhance.” Any replacement window must preserve the character of the original or, ideally, enhance it by correcting previous inappropriate alterations.
Conservation Area Requirements
Even unlisted Georgian buildings in conservation areas face restrictions. Local planning authorities can require:
Prior approval for window replacement
Evidence that proposed windows match original specifications
Specific materials (typically timber only)
Authentic glazing patterns and proportions
In practice, this means cheap uPVC or aluminium replacements are almost never acceptable. Quality timber windows built to Georgian specifications are the standard expectation.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Having worked with Georgian properties for years, we see the same errors repeatedly. Here’s what to watch for:
Glazing Bar Width
As mentioned, bars over 25mm look wrong. But equally problematic are bars that are too slim — under 15mm can appear flimsy and may not meet Building Regulations for structural glazing.
Incorrect Glass
Georgian glass had imperfections — slight ripples, bubbles, and variations in thickness. Modern float glass is perfectly flat and uniform. For the most authentic appearance, consider restoration glass with deliberate imperfections, though this costs significantly more.
Wrong Sash Proportions
Georgian sashes were almost always equal in height. Windows with a taller lower sash or shorter upper sash are Victorian conventions, not Georgian.
Inappropriate Hardware
Georgian windows used brass or iron fittings — simple sash lifts, face-fixed locks, and plain pulleys. Ornate Victorian hardware looks anachronistic.
Painting Schemes
Georgian windows were typically painted — white became fashionable from the mid-18th century, though earlier buildings often used darker colours. The bare wood look beloved of some modern restorations isn’t historically accurate.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the typical glazing pattern for Georgian windows?
The characteristic Georgian glazing pattern is six-over-six — six panes in the upper sash and six in the lower, totalling twelve panes per window. This pattern resulted from 18th-century glass manufacturing limitations, where crown glass could only be economically produced in relatively small sheets. Earlier Georgian properties sometimes featured nine-over-nine or even twelve-over-twelve patterns, whilst later Georgian windows occasionally used larger panes as glass technology improved.
How wide should glazing bars be on Georgian windows?
Authentic Georgian glazing bars measure 18-20mm wide, with some early examples as slim as 15mm. This delicate proportioning is essential for period accuracy. Modern reproductions often use bars of 25-30mm, which immediately looks wrong to anyone familiar with Georgian architecture. For listed buildings or conservation areas, matching original bar widths is typically a planning requirement.
Did Georgian windows have sash horns?
No. Sash horns — the small projections at the bottom corners of the upper sash — are a Victorian innovation from the 1840s. They appeared when larger glass panes created heavier sashes requiring additional joint reinforcement. Authentic Georgian windows have flush meeting rails with no horns whatsoever. Any “Georgian” window with horns is historically inaccurate.
What’s the correct height-to-width ratio for Georgian windows?
Georgian windows typically follow a height-to-width ratio of approximately 2:1 or slightly taller, creating the elegant vertical emphasis characteristic of the period. Both sashes should be equal in height, and individual panes should be taller than they are wide. Windows on upper floors were deliberately smaller than those below — a proportional technique that makes buildings appear more elegant from street level.
Can I install double glazing in a listed Georgian property?
Possibly, but it requires careful design and Listed Building Consent. Historic England’s position is that single glazing is preferred for listed buildings, but sympathetically designed double glazing may be acceptable where it doesn’t harm the building’s significance. This typically means slim-profile units, authentic glazing bar widths, and retention of original box frame proportions. Each case is assessed individually by the local conservation officer.
What timber species is best for Georgian window restoration?
For historically accurate restoration, softwood (typically Scots pine or Baltic redwood) matches what Georgians actually used. For enhanced durability, engineered softwood offers better dimensional stability whilst maintaining authentic appearance. Hardwoods like oak weren’t commonly used for Georgian sash windows, though they’re sometimes specified for improved longevity in exposed locations.
Conclusion
Georgian windows represent a high point in British architectural design — elegant, proportioned, and purposeful. Whether you’re restoring originals or installing sympathetic replacements, understanding the details that define authentic Georgian glazing makes the difference between windows that honour your property’s heritage and ones that undermine it.
The six-over-six pattern, slim 18-20mm glazing bars, absence of sash horns, and correct proportions aren’t arbitrary historical details. They’re the visual language of Georgian architecture, and they’re what conservation officers, neighbours, and future buyers will notice.
At Timber Windows Direct, we manufacture bespoke sash windows to authentic Georgian specifications — correct proportions, appropriate glazing bar profiles, and traditional construction methods. Every window is made to order for your specific openings.
Get your free quote and let’s discuss how to get your Georgian windows right.
